After six seasons showing in New York, German group Hugo Boss’ flagship brand decided to present its latest collection at Milan Fashion Week, where it plans to settle for the foreseeable future in order to be closer to the European market. As explained in a press release, this coed show in the Lombard capital marks the start of a new phase for the label, defining a “new attitude” for both its men’s and womenswear.
Although it preserved its usual understated pragmatism, this season Boss permitted itself to experiment with a bold colour palette, which ranged from fire red to sky blue, electric blue and azure, before diving into almost transparent shades of aquamarine and ice, passing through butter, canary yellow and champagne. All of the looks were all-over monochrome outfits and were presented in front of a backdrop whose moving colours evolved to accompany the pieces making their way down the catwalk.
Formalwear, in particular, was stripped of all rigidity, seeking to offer more relaxed, easy-to-wear pieces. Ties came in a variety of colours and were matched with the vibrant shades of the suits they accessorised.
The new Boss suit can be worn with sneakers and paired with striped or crocheted jumpers, or even with a simple t-shirt, like the stylish white one worn under a double-breasted six-button blazer. For the ladies, these ensembles took on a slinkier silhouette, coupling wide trousers with long buttoned jackets dyed in delicate colours.
As the brand began its new chapter in Italy, the emphasis was placed on materials, notably with the introduction of Nappa leather, which the designer used to laser cut some superb pieces: soft floor-sweeping coats, suits with pared-down buttonless jackets, (including a particularly original turquoise version) and wrap-around trenches. The leather also elevated the label’s sportswear, as in the case of a bright red Nappa hoodie, for example, or with the jackets, sports shirts and shorts in black leather.
Wilts also explored varnished and waxed textures in order to create unusual brightly coloured waterproofs, and played with vivid shades of nylon, sending out a particularly interesting cerulean windbreaker and wide shorts ensemble.
For the evening, the Boss boys broke the rules with a beige tuxedo, while the girls opted for long flowing dresses in satin – when they didn’t turn up in double-breast suits of their own, that is.
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