The 37-year-old British designer’s presentations can swing between classic fashion shows and militant occasions, and on Saturday, he stuck by his reputation.
In Pugh’s world, London is a sordid concrete jungle, covered with asphalt and choking in thick, toxic fumes.
In this urban nightmare, the revolt of an “outsider society” is born, driven by a “flat out rejection of conservatism”, according to the fashion label, and stalked by warlike and provocative women.
Shod in paramilitary boots, they slip into tight-fitting combinations decorated with geometric patterns, and conceal their faces behind masks sometimes reminiscent of Spiderman.
For weapons, they carry large red or black fans that they wave insolently while marching up the podium.
Rebellious and bellicose, they sport leather kimonos, super-short black dresses, or waterproof plastic revealing dominatrix-style bustiers and garters.
The show was also a tribute to the British creator Judy Blame, a punk culture icon who died this year aged 58.
“Judy was uncompromising, ungovernable and fiercely anti-establishment. He was a creative extremist,” said Pugh, who could legitimately claim the same qualities.
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