For its Spring/Summer 2019 collection, the luxury house fused its history as a saddler with the world of maritime adventures, creating a sporty, graphic wardrobe for lovers of nature and the great outdoors, where a leather saddle was transformed into the collar of a large white t-shirt and a groom’s apron metamorphosed into a black summer dress. The palette focused on natural shades of desert, sand, off-white, sienna and slate, punctuated with intense flashes of red, orange and turquoise.
The collection’s maritime element came to the fore in a little white trapeze dress which looked as though it had been cut from a sail, as well as in a chocolate leather parka which transformed into a shell jacket and was paired with matching shorts. Ropes cropped up everywhere: crossed over the collar of a leather dress that was slit up the front, in the drawstrings of a playsuit allowing the piece to be cinched in at the waist, and as a black trim on a turquoise tunic. Elsewhere, carabiners were used as buckles.
Tunics were held up by ropes and ribbons passed through metal rings at the models’ shoulders, like the sails of a schooner, and the nautical wardrobe was rounded off with tight surfer bodysuits worn under skirts or perforated leather mini-dresses.
The focus was on leather, the brand’s star material. It could be seen in structured hooded shell jackets, natural-leather gilets, a large skirt woven from aniline lambskin and a wraparound maxi skirt in ultra soft leather held up by braces worn over a cable-knit tube top, as well as in some imposing armour-like sea-blue coats with gigantic pockets.
An original finishing touch came in the form of the buttons on some of the single and double-breasted jackets created by Laurence Owen, which looked as though they had been rusted by the sea spray.
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