A red glow, like that of a dark room, pervaded the show space, as music from the soundtracks of films by Italian master of horror Dario Argento played in the background. Massimo Giorgetti had created a very particular atmosphere in which to present his collection for Fall/Winter 2020-21 in Milan on Sunday.
“I’m a huge fan of horror films, and especially films by Dario Argento. I got in touch with him via e-mail and he replied the next day. We met and it was an incredible experience,” said the MSGM designer backstage, going on to explain that he had taken inspiration above all from the vision of the director, with whom he worked closely. The collection’s labels even read “Dario Argento x MSGM.”
Black and red dominated the runway, appearing in a bright red duffle coat, or in another in stonewashed black denim that looked to have been dyed with red blood, a substance which also seemed to have run down a classic herringbone number.
The carefully curated palette included other hues inspired by the director’s universe too: terracotta, cyclamen, emerald green and lavender, to name but a few. Long coats in saturated colours were wrapped around models’ bodies, while one dark parka was brightened up with a turquoise lining.
Neckerchiefs and flowing scarfs floated as the boys walked down the runway in heavy shoes in white or red with black-tipped laces, footwear made in collaboration with English brand Cult. The ensembles were finished – of course – with murderous black leather gloves.
The collection’s pieces were printed with details and references culled from Argento’s oeuvre. Carnivorous plants appeared on silk shirts, along with menacing cats’ jaws and bloody figures that put one in mind of the posters and key scenes from Suspiria and Profondo Rosso.
Etro’s equestrian adventure
There was a radical change of register at Etro. Old family portraits from the 19th and 20th centuries abounded, alongside images of horses and riders, covering the walls of a dilapidated Milanese garage. The stage was set for an equestrian-themed runway show.
But rather than the riding outfit itself, it was the attitude of the nomadic dandy that the Italian house had decided to explore for next winter, alternating cowboys with gentleman farmers, with a touch of nostalgia linked to a distant past.
“Above all, it was the romantic dimension that we wanted to explore, as well as the link with nature, all while focusing on simplicity,” explained Kean Etro after the show. Indeed, the designer skilfully combined stalwart essentials with richer, more imposing pieces.
The overall silhouette was defined by high boots and wide-brimmed hats, along with throws that were either slung over the models’ shoulders, or worn as ponchos or fringed shawls, channelling something of Clint Eastwood in his Spaghetti Western days.
Fringe also put in an appearance on the sleeves of suede jackets and dangled from the bottom of both a woollen coat and a hybrid pea coat that was half leather, half tartan, while metal studs decorated a range of jackets and coats.
Creased trousers were worn over boots, a look that was also sent out by Miuccia Prada at her menswear runway show this season. Elsewhere, simple turtlenecks were elevated by gorgeous jackets in macro Paisley or embroidered silk. Tweed suits rubbed shoulders with shiny or ribbed velvet, while jumpers picked up on the ethnic motifs so dear to the brand, and printed shirts were paired with silk scarfs, knotted neatly at the models’ necks.
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